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The basic materials you need are two pliers and rings. If you are making your own rings you will need additional materials, but I will cover that further down in the guide.
However, there are many points to consider when considering what to use. The metal that the rings will be made from is one of the factors that will determine how strong the armor is in the end.
It also determines how expensive and difficult your project will be. The weaker and more pliable the wire is, the weaker the armor will be because the rings will break easier.
Also, the weaker and more pliable the wire is, the easier the rings will be to open and close. Generally, this makes the wire cheaper as well, but not in all cases.
Here are the pros and cons of several common Chain Mail metals. The gauge of the armor is a measurement of how thin the wire or rings are.
When wire was made hundreds of years ago, the metal would be put through a gauge machine over and over.
The more times it went through, the more fine it became. This measurement is still in use. The higher the gauge, the thinner and weaker the wire.
In general, anything 16 gauge and lower is quality armor. Anything 22 or higher is very thin and really only good for costume strength chainmail and jewelry.
The higher the gauge, the less expensive the wire becomes. Choose the size diameter of ring you want for your armor. Obviously, the smaller the the diameter of the rings, the longer it will take because you will need to connect more rings together and the more expensive it becomes because your armor will be more dense.
However, the smaller the diameter of the ring the stronger the armor is. These are both good sizes. This is one way to compensate for having weaker metal.
By using more rings, you improve the strength. You need to have two pliers at minimum to actually weave the Chainmail. I prefer to use medium size, flat nose, craftsman pliers with no teeth at the tip.
If you plan to make your own rings from wire, then progress to the next section and I will cover how to do this and what materials you need.
If you already have your rings all set, then carry on to the third section, "Weaving the Rings. This section will teach you to make rings from wire.
The basic idea is to wrap the wire around a metal rod, making a coil. One then cuts the coil down the length to make rings of wire. However, this gets very difficult if you do it by hand.
I have found a simple set up that is very easy to create that really speeds up the process. As I said before, we will be using the European 4 in 1 weave.
The weave is called this because it was developed and used in Europe and because every one ring is attached to 4 other rings. This weave is not very difficult.
About half the rings you use will need to be closed before adding them to the weave. To do this, simply take your two pliers and bend the ends of the rings together.
If you want to make quality armor that looks nice and functions well, you need to make sure that the ends of the rings are flush.
This means that there should not be any empty space between the ends and that the rings should not feel jagged if you run your finger around the ring.
You may have to use the pliers to squeeze the ends past each other before you close them. By the nature of the rings, when you bend them closed or open, the ends will start to drift apart.
As about half the rings you use will be closed, half of them will need to be open to fit into the weave. This means that you are going to have to use the pliers to squeeze the ends of the ring past each other.
Now you will take one of the "Open Rings" The ones from step 10 and thread four "Closed Rings" onto the ring you just opened.
Now close that ring. You should have four rings attached to one ring. Do this several times. Take two of your Sets of Five and lay them out in such a way that the original "Open Ring" is in the middle of the four "Closed Rings.
Now, you have to open another ring. Thread the ring through the spaces where those little red dots are. Now, lay two strands next to each other.
Take an open ring, and thread it through the overlaps on the edges where the red dots are , connecting them together.
Do this all the way up the strand. It should look like this. I usually start by making many more of those strands the ones that can encircle your chest and connect them together, until you get enough chain material to go from just under your armpit to your waist, or however far you decide to go.
Next, simply connect the ends together to form a tube. This section is a little tedious. You are going make the upper back and the upper chest.
Once you put in the sections for the upper back and upper chest, you are going to want to add in rings, one at a time, to make it look neat and well crafted.
You can stop here and skip to step You have a very fine chain mail vest done! If you chose to make sleeves, then continue on. For sleeves, simply make tubes that can encase your arm.
Make sure the rings go in the same direction as the vest so the sleeve and vest will connect. Many people leave the armpit unconnected. Other people connect it as best they can.
The choice is really up to you. Do what ever you like the best! If you are happy with the shirt, then stop and skip ahead to step If you want to make a full suit, then make the skirt.
Make two sections of chain material that would each be half of a tube the same size as the armpit to waist tube we made at the beginning of this section.
It should generally be long enough to go to mid thigh or to the knee, but this is completely up to you again. The length is just whatever you like the best.
Do not connect the edges together, though. The reason for this is so that you can open and close your legs whilst still protecting your flank.
Generally if you give your Chain Mail a good wash it will come out shinier, especially if you use a dirty metal like mild steel or aluminum. A normal washing machine does a good job buy it might hurt your machine as it will be a rather heavy piece of metal.
The pliers must be strong enough to bend the metal you are using and fine enough to handle the ring size you choose. Types of metal rods include Phillips screwdrivers, or a steel rod purchased from a hardware store.
Often you can find some type of metal rod lying about your house. Wind the wire if you are starting with wire firmly around a metal rod.
Wooden dowels and pencils are not recommended as the forces applied while coiling your wire will compress the wood and give you rings of unequal dimensions.
You may need to control one or both ends with pliers. Aim for even, consistent loops and try to avoid putting tight kinks in the wire. If the wire came in a coil or spool, wind with the curvature that the wire already has.
Also try to keep the "spring" as tight together as possible. The more spaced the rings are, the longer the rings actually become.
For making large quantities, make a small hole in the rod to fasten the wire and use a drill to rotate the rod. Heavy gloves are recommended with this method.
Cut the rings if you started with wire. Cutting on a slight diagonal will help to achieve a tight closure with no gap. If you want a flatter, cleaner cut, you can put the coil in a vice preferably with the rod still inside and cut it with a hacksaw.
Doing this eliminates the sharp points in the ends of the ring that can get caught on clothes and skin. Close four rings, using pliers.
Thread all four onto a fifth ring shown here in red and close the fifth ring. Fully close all rings to give the piece an even, finished appearance and to prevent it from catching hair.
For opening and closing the rings, twist the ends of the ring away from each other. Do not pull the ends straight away from each other, as you will not get the ring to be round again.
Depending on your material, you may have to close the ring past the final position you want, then bring it back. Arrange the five rings as shown, with two over and two under.
Close two more rings. Link both into another ring also red , but do not close the red ring yet. Loop the red ring through both of the bottom two rings, as shown, from bottom to top.
Arrange the two bottom-most rings so that they are in the pattern. Repeat the last two steps until you have a strip that is the length you want.
Begin building the next row. Pass the blue ring through the top two gold rings from the first row. Be sure that it ends up oriented the same as the red ring adjacent to it.
Add it to the pattern, linking this blue ring through three other rings. Repeat Part Two of the article to add each new row. When the piece is as large as you want, continue to the next step.
Make a second piece. They sell pliers, uncut coils, wire, scales for scale mail, chainmail rings, and ring welding equipment, as well as loads of other equipment.
Not Helpful 6 Helpful The Order of the Dark Oats. Yes, just Google "chainmail weaves" and there should be a bunch of results, all of them free.
Not Helpful 1 Helpful 5. You need to stitch them on, with the stitching looping over the rings. Not Helpful 13 Helpful For armor I use riveted mail.
Not Helpful 4 Helpful 5. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Already answered Not a question Bad question Other.
Tips Some maille weaves can be much easier to construct when they are hanging from a string, wire, or rod. It can mean the difference between success and failure, especially for a neophyte mailer.
It can be useful to tack down the chainmail with yarn onto a muslin backing or some similar arrangement to help maintain the shape as well as make the pattern more apparent.
Learn about aspect ratio abbreviated AR as it applies to mailing. It will make construction and planning of your projects much easier.
Look around for projects that others have done for inspiration. Be aware, though, that while imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery, give credit where credit is due.
Warnings If you plan to use chainmail for swordplay rather than for fashion, costume, or decoration, make certain that it is strong enough for what you intend to do.
Two methods which work rather well are welding each ring shut and riveting the rings shut as was done on historical chainmail.
Maille with rings that are not welded or riveted shut, or rings made out of aluminum common for costume maille as it is lighter will NOT provide sufficient protection from period weapons.
Realize that even the best chain maille only turns a fast-moving sharp sword into a fast-moving metal bat: Sharp edges of rings are quite hard on fabric, and some metals will cause gray or very dark gray deposits on fabric.
Wear special undergarments of heavy or durable fabric. Copper and aluminum are known for discoloring skin, green and black respectively. Chainmaille jewelry or headpieces can become entangled in the hair.
You may want to consider sanding ring edges for specialty pieces and ensuring rings fit smoothly with no gaps at the joins. If you are doing a large project, tumbling all your rings at once is a much more efficient use of your time than sanding each one individually.
A scarf or padded fabric head covering worn under chain mail can keep headpieces from damaging hair or scalp. Cut wire ends can be sharp. Handle rings carefully and wear eye protection.
Store loose rings in a sturdy container with a lid. It is important to note that the instructions provided here detail the construction of butted maille, which is maille where the ends of the rings are just pressed butted against each other.
Sufficient force can and will spread the ends of butted rings apart, damaging the maille and possibly what is behind it. Historical armor was made of riveted links, a much more complicated and time intensive construction method, but a method which secured the ends of the rings to each other.
Neither method, however, produces maille that is bulletproof. Preferably flat and well lit. Choose a size and gauge suited to your purpose and consider the material and finish.
Do you want color? Do you want to buy precut rings or make your own? If you make your own rings, you will also need the following to make your rings: Available in all kinds of materials and all kinds of sizes from all kinds of sources.
Check your local hardware stores, farm supply stores, welding supply stores, craft stores, and even craft and hardware in your local department store.
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